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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.